BIRTH OF A MUSEUM



The communication for the Louvre ABU DHABI has been around for some months - maybe longer. Marielle and I decided to go the day after the opening. The thousands of people going into the Louvre was enough to daunt the keenest of us all and I cringed for a moment thinking that our exhibition would be flooded. Not at all. We saw it in exceptional conditions. When the Islam gallery opening a few years ago, I tried to see it in the early days but waited for over a year before the crowds had slowed down. I would think that for « Birth of a Museum » will create the same traffic, so we were very fortunate. 






On seeing the maquette, my first remark was « now if the Guggenheim was there, I would go to see them both » - something triggered off something else in my mind and later I remembered that the Guggenheim is to be there - the largest in the world, opening in 2017 and the Louvre opens at the end of 2015. I hope I’ll be around to visit them. 



The future Louvre Abu Dhabi

The future Louvre Abu Dhabi

The future Louvre Abu Dhabi

The future Guggenheim

The future Guggenheim


Both museums are  situated on the Saadiyat Island. The Louvre Abu Dhabi is poised between sand and sea. Providing a haven of coolness, the building forms a place of shade during the day and ‘an oasis of light under a spangled dome’ at night. With the Guggenheim « just next door » on this man made oasis, it will be one of the most extraordinary sites in the world - I would think.

The Louvre Abu Dhabi building was designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Jean Nouvel:

« I wanted this building to mirror a protected territory that belongs to the Arab world and this geography.’ Combining modern architecture and inspiration drawn from the region’s traditions, the design reflects the desire to create a universal museum in which all cultures are brought together. »

There were around 150 works on view. Somehow it was ambiguous. Where did they come from ? Museums? Private collections? Sometimes they are referred to as acquisitions and at other times a rotating collection from French National Museums - for the first ten years anyway.The list of museums is long. The Abu Dhabi has already started it’s permanent collection but something makes me feel that they are not acquisitions - not for the 20th century works anyhow - but loans for a given period.


Gold Lion Bracelet - Iran 7th C  BC
Among these exceptional works and they are, there is a gold bracelet with figures of lions made in Iran nearly 3,000 years ago;

Marielle would have liked me to take it out of the cabinet for her. 
Eagle shaped Fibula 2nd half of the 5th (Italy)

A fibula (brooch) in gold with garnets from Italy dating from the fifth century AD; this came from a fabulous treasure which was discovered in the small Italian republic of San Marino. And it was probably the first piece to be unearthed. It’s a masterpiece I would think. The fibula was a type of broach that was generally worn on the shoulder to fasten a piece of clothing.



Paintings by Jordaens, Manet, and Magritte; a previously unseen papier collé by Picasso; and nine paintings by the recently deceased American painter Cy Twombly completed the collection.

What though really took my eye was this…….


Princesse de Bactriane - Asie Centale, fin du lll millenaire avan JC

She is absolutely beautiful. A Bactrian « princess » . It’s one of the finest examples of work produced by a civilization that flourished between 2300 and 1700 BCE in Central Asia. Apparently she is unusual because most of these Bactrian « princesses » are seated so this example is unusual on account of the standing position. I will go back if only to see her again. 

The Shiva dancing, the second half of the 10th century is one of the most important Hindu gods and traditionally represented in many forms. The best known is of this one that you see below. He is an ambivalent god, both a violent creature and a protective deity who is responsible for the creation and destruction of the universe. In his upper right arm, he holds the drum with which he beats out the rhythm for the creation of the world and in the upper left hand, he holds the flame to destroy it at the end of the cosmic cycle (when could that be?). Beneath his feet, he tramples the demon of ignorance and with his lower right had he makes the sign of protection. Finally, with his lower left hand he invites worshippers to bow down before his outstretched foot. I was fascinated by Shiva when visiting India. He is worshipped and this is still widespread in southern India even today.  
Shiva dancing  - India, 2nd half of 10th century



Mother of pearl ewer -Indian early 16th


We moved along the centuries. Religions lived harmoniously together. During the Renaissance there is a move toward a modern era.

This Mother-of-pearl Ewer caught my eye. It was difficult for me to believe that it was originally Indian from the early 16th century and 17th century additions. It probably arrived in Europe, transported from Asia by the Portuguese. Mounted in the West where further additions were made. 


I didn’t stay too long in front of the paintings. It was the « objects » that held my attention. This Lion-shaped aquamanile (1200) from Northern Germany. In bronze and used to pour water onto the hands, either as part of religious rituals or in everyday life, for instance before a meal. It looks so proud and so heavy too. 




Ewer with astrological iconography - Afghanistan - 1200 ce (?)

Lion Shaped Aquamanile 10th Germany 1200

Octagonal (box (618-907cv) Mid 18th - My Mother had one - but looking at it again , I doubt if it is so old!!!

Most of the 20th century works I had seen already. I agree with some of my friends when they say they Cy Twombly (1928-2011) is just squiggles. This untitled series of 9 paintings was one of the very last cycles of images painted by the artist. It dates from 2008, 3 years before he died. There is a lot of his work I do like, especially from the Abstract Expressionists a movement which emerged in the USA in the 1950’s. I find it difficult though to enter into this so called creative activity. 



Cy Twombly 2008 (no title)

Just two of the 9
Kazuo Shirage (1924-2008) Chiriseio Kyubiki 1960

However,  Kazuo Shiraga (1924-2008), is an artist I did not know and who is one of the most important figures in the Gutai group in Japan. I learnt that the word Gutai means concrete and refers to the works components….Then I remembered and it all came back. Of course he is the Japanese who painted with his feet, dangling from a rope in swift rhythmical and deliberate movements. This work was achieved in that way.  Not unlike Yves Klein or Jackson Pollock don’t you think? In the was they painted. 

René Magritte (1898-1967) The Subjugated Reader 1928

The Magritte ( 1898-1967) I had seen both in Paris and in Brussels and find it hard to believe that it will be on loan to this new museum for 10 years or more. "The Subjugated Reader" (1928). The expression of terror on her face as she looks as the open book has always intrigued me. What is she looking at to be so afraid ? It’s and inexplicable mystery and over to you to rely on your imagination. 




Paul Gaugin (1448-1903) Children Wrestling 1888


 
Gaugin’s (1848-1903) " Children Wrestling" (1888) was one of the small numbers of works painted in Port-Aven and as it goes one of his first masterpieces.



Edouard Manet (1832-1883) The Gypsy after 1867?

 Edouard Manet (1832-1883) T"he Gypsy" (1862) looks a little like Manet himself don’t you think? But did he see himself as a gypsy?




Picasso (1881-1973) Portrait of a Lady 1928




Of course the Picasso (1881-1937) was a dream and had not been on show before. "Portrait of  Lady" done in1928 is a gouache, ink and collage on paper. This was one of the first paintings of Picasso when he integrated real objects from daily life directly into his work. 
I hope she comes back to France before long. 




 



These are just some of the works over many centuries that made up the exhibition. The Renaissance paintings may not have impressed me, but my goodness those objects did. 


Louvre Abu Dhabi, which will be opening in December 2015, will be the first universal museum created in the Middle East, a region at the crossroads of civilizations. Its collection of old and contemporary works from different countries is being built up gradually. Just this small collection makes me hope they I can make the journey for both those museums.

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